Sterling Rear APEX Short Truss
SKU : TR1004
Regular price
$153.99
$138.59
Complete your build with
Sterling Rear APEX Short Truss
- PATENTED APEX peaked top: enhanced rigidity over flat top designs
- 3/16" mild steel, CNC laser cut: lightweight and strong, only 13 lbs
- CNC precision bent: easy drop-in fitment, ready to weld
- 3D modeled for perfect fit and component clearances
- 70% less welding: reduced warping, faster turnaround, lower costs
- Bent long seams: no time-consuming welding needed
- Dimpled holes: weight reduction, increased rigidity and strength
- Low profile design: ideal link joint mounting geometry
- Versatile fit: between Leaf Springs or as a base for link suspension mounts
- Two-piece design: smaller packaging, reduced shipping costs, easy installation
- Streamlined low profile: stronger, sleeker axle, minimized component interference
Introducing the APEX Truss by Artec Industries - the next generation of PATENTED axle trusses. Experience unmatched cost savings, strength, weight reduction, ease of installation, precision fitment, and complete axle protection. The APEX truss features a unique peaked shape top for added rigidity and reduced weight, while eliminating long weld seams. Ideal for APEX 1-ton swap kits for JK, JL, and JT, it enhances rigidity and allows upper link mounting over the differential.
Notes : This kit requires general welding and fabrication skills. Welding should only be done by a competent welder. Artec Industries implies no guarantees or warranties and is not liable for improper installation.
Reviews
Install Instructions
THIS PART REQUIRES WELDING AND GENERAL
FABRICATION SKILLS. ONLY COMPETENT WELDERS SHOULD ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THIS PART.
Tools Required :
Safety Glasses, Gloves, , Socket Set, Wrenches, Wheel
chocks, Cutting Tool of your choice
(Sawzall, Grinder, plasma, cutting torch) Lug wrench, Wheel Lock Key (If you
have wheel locks the guys at the tire shop probably lost the wheel lock key
Welder/ Welding PPE,
Step 1:
Inventory that you have all of the parts for your order If you are missing
parts or have incorrect parts contact Artec Industries Immediately @
(855)-278-3299 M-F from 8am-5pm MST. If
it is after those hours please Email Sales@Artecindustries.com
Step 2:
Place wheel chocks at the front wheels of the vehicle. Break free lug nuts on rear wheels (Do not fully loosen or remove lug nuts yet.)
Step 3:
With the vehicle sitting on the ground, Measure your ride
height at the frame and height of the centerline of the axle, Also take
measurement of your wheel base.
(Make a note of this for later.)
Step 4:
Jack up the rear of the vehicle and set the axle on Jack
stands, Remove the rear wheels from the vehicle, With the wheels removed Jack the vehicle up
again. Securely place tall jack stands under the frame in front of the LCA or
Leaf spring mounts at the previously measurement of ride height. Place a 2nd
sent of jack stands under the rear axle.
Step 5:
Remove the existing rear axle from the vehicle. If you are
stretching wheelbase back far enough for
axle to interfere with fuel tank you will also want to Remove the fuel tank and
set it in a well ventilated area away from where you will be working and
welding.
Step 6:
Prep axle the truss will be welded onto by removing all
mounts and paint/ rust. Once the axle is
prepped. Slide new axle under the vehicle and place on jack stands at the
measurement of what the centerline height was at ride height also make sure it
is set to the wheelbase you will be using.
Step 7:
Using another jack stand or block of wood set under the
pinion on the axle set the desired pinion angle of your build to ensure it does
not get changed . Now place the truss on top of the axle so it is level with
the ground and not tilted forward or backward (If your
truss is angled it can cause upper arm mounts or the truss to twist off under
load) You may need to trim some
material off of the truss to allow it to sit level depending on your wheelbase
and pinion angle.
Step 8:
With the truss set level on top of the axle tack weld The
truss ends to the axle tubes.
Step 9:
With the truss tacked into place Pull the rear axle from
under the vehicle to allow more space for welding. Once the axle is pulled from under the
vehicle. Heat the axle to about 400
degrees Start to weld the truss to the
axle .When welding, Start on one side of
the axle, Weld a small amount, Then move on to the opposite side of the axle to
allow each side to cool. This will help prevent warping. Grind and clean the
rosette welds on the axle. If your truss has a bridge you may need to Trim the
bridge depending on your pinion angle and weld it to the truss. (Optional) Stitch
weld the axle tubes to the ends of the casting for added axle strength and to
prevent the axle tubes from twisting. If you have any Control arm
mounts, Shock mounts, Coil over tabs, Track bar mounts that need to be welded
on to the axle you will need to place
the axle under the vehicle on jack stands at ride height and desired wheelbase
an weld them on at this time in their proper location for your specific
build. Once all of the welding is
complete you will wrap the axle in a
welding blanket to slowly cool overnight.
Step 10:
Clean the Truss and axle of any machining oils and Prep for
paint or powder coat.
Step 11:
Install the axle back under the vehicle and place on jack
stands. If you removed your fuel tank
you can reinstall it at this point.
Install the wheels on the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts (Do not torque them down yet.) Lift the vehicle and remove all of
the jack stands and set the vehicle on the ground. with the vehicle on the ground check all of
the bolts and lug nuts are torqued to proper specs. we recommend drawing a line
on the nut and bolt heads and where they are mounted for quick reference when
checking for tightness after 50 miles .
Check
all bolts for tightness after 50 miles .
Community Discussion