JK APEX Front Axle ARMOR KIT
- JK APEX Front Axle Truss - A NEW ERA HAS BEGUN WITH THE ARRIVAL OF THE APEX TRUSS! Artec Industries is proud to announce the next generation of PATENT PENDING axle trusses. This series of trusses not only builds on our experience as the world leader in axle truss design, it brings it to a whole new level of cost savings, strength, weight savings, simplicity of installation, precision fitment, and complete axle protection never before seen in the industry. The key feature that sets the APEX truss apart is its unique peaked shape top which provides extra rigidity to the whole truss while allowing both a reduction in weight (vs using a thicker material top) and eliminating long weld seams. Previous versions with long weld seams can be lead to extra weld warping of the axle, longer install times and can be inconsistent. This peaked structure not only applies to the axle tube between the coil perches but extends underneath the coil perches as well, forming a complete truss from end to end of axle, an industry first in an OEM axle application. The JK APEX Front Axle Truss has been secretly tested for over a year and a half proving that even though the truss is lighter weight, the peaked structure of the truss holds up to both extreme applications and daily driving. The new JK APEX Front Axle Truss is the epitome of low cost, easy and quick to weld, simple, strong, and complete solutions for making your factory Jeep axle take more abuse than originally intended. You want easy insurance for your axle? The JK APEX Truss provides it.
- JK Front LCA Skids - These heavy duty skids are designed to take serious abuse and reinforce your JL front axle lower control arm brackets. The 1/4" thick precision cut and formed components of this setup mean they'll install easily and protect your brackets and lower control arms.
- JK Inner C Gussets - These heavy duty inner C gussets are designed to take serious abuse and reinforce your front Dana 30 or 44 JK Inner C's. The 1/4" thick precision cut and formed components precisely contour and wrap around your inner c and add rigidity.
- JK APEX Trackbar Brackets - One of the weakest components of your factory axle is the axle side tracbar bracket and it's typically one of the main reasons for "death wobble". Our new Heavy Duty Tracbar brackets are designed to work with our new APEX Truss and eliminate the issues caused by weak factory brackets. They are seriously beefy and ready to take the abuse not to mention raise your steering stabilizer up and out of the way of rocks. For those running smaller lifts and are using an adjustable tracbar mounting to the the factory location, choose STOCK HEIGHT. For those with taller lifts that require a DRAG LINK FLIP, choose RAISED HEIGHT.
- PATENT PENDING APEX truss peaked top design provides more rigidity than a flat top truss design
- Truss is CNC Precision Laser cut in-house from 1/8" mild steel for a lightweight yet strong solution...only 7 lbs
- Truss is CNC Precision Bent in-house for a great fitment. Literally drop the truss in place on the axle and it's ready to weld. No puzzle piece assembling*
- Designed used 3D models directly from Dana Corp and Jeep for not only an amazing fit but clearances with surrounding components
- 70% less welding needed than previous truss designs means less warping, faster turnaround, and lower costs
- All long seams are bent so you don't need to spend time welding them together
- APEX design continues under the OEM coil buckets for complete end-to-end axle reinforcement...an industry first
- Dimpled holes provide not only weight reduction but rigidity and strength
- Contours to the cast steel differential and can be welded with normal MIG welder and moderate pre-heating and post-heating
- Provides worry-free wheeling of up to 37 inch tires on stock JK axles**
- Truss strengthens the weakest sections of the axle...under the coil perches, around the control arm brackets, and where the tube enters the casting
- Low Profile Design doesn't go over differential and allows usage in vehicles with only slight lift***
- Front LCA Skids, Inner C Gussets and HD Trackbar Brackets made from 1/4" steel
- Skids, Gussets, and Brackets strengthen or replace weak components of the axle that are prone to failure
NOTE: Jeep offers different variations of axle housings. Please refer to the following diagram for details on which version to choose. If you have one model of a vehicle but have swapped in axles from another model, choose the model that the axles were originally in.
- JK3055 - Use on JK Sport/Sahara (Dana 30 front axle) with over 3 inch lift using DRAG LINK FLIP KIT
- JK3056 - Use on JK Sport/Sahara (Dana 30 front axle) with under 3 inch lift using factory trackbar mounting location
- JK4455 - Use on JK Rubicon (Dana 44 front axle) with over 3 inch lift using DRAG LINK FLIP KIT
- JK4456 - Use on JK Rubicon (Dana 44 front axle) with under 3 inch lift using factory trackbar mounting location
***THIS KIT IS INTENDED FOR VEHICLES WITH AT LEAST MINOR LIFTS (2.0"+ RECOMMENDED) AND AT LEAST 1/2" BUMP STOP EXTENSIONS. CHECK CLEARANCES BEFORE INSTALLING. NOT TESTED IN NON-US JKs or RIGHT HAND DRIVE AXLES.**
** In rare and extreme cases, the truss may come into contact with oil pan. Prior to operating the vehicle, remove the coil springs, cycle the suspension including full compression of both sides simultaneously and add bumpstop extensions to prevent damage to oil pan.
*** Axle Armor kits will not work on Non OEM Jeep Axles Example : Dana/ Spicer Ultimate44 housings, Dynatrac Pro Rock44 axles, Or G2 D44 Axles ***
While we're working on the detailed instructions, here's some tips on installing your APEX truss. Refer to online pictures for orientation of the truss.
STEP 1. Unpack contents of shipment. Remove axle from vehicle for best results and easiest installation. Prior to mockup make sure axle is clean and uninstall any oem and aftermarket bolt-on accessories that may conflict with truss installation. Remove axle breather hose and uninstall any electric locker wires from casting. This area will be welded so care should be taken to prevent these components for melting.
STEP 2. Place parts 1 and 3 on the axle around the pumpkin. These parts should drop right on and self-center. Part 2 requires a little more work. If you are keeping your factory trackbar bracket, you will need to remove some material from part 2. Using a cutoff wheel, cut along the laser etched lines which make a trapezoid shape. If you are using a replacement Artec trackbar bracket, no cutting of the truss is needed. Place the tip of the truss that contacts the coil bucket on the coil bucket and rotate the truss down sliding past the UCA bushing. It may require a little force to pop past the bushing. Part 4 goes under the passenger side coil bucket. If you are keeping the factory trackbar bracket, you'll need to trim this bracket on the etch lines as well. Once trimmed, the truss piece will slide in from the backside over the shock brackets...it may take some work to shimmy it in there. If removing the factory trackbar bracket and using an Artec trackbar bracket, this piece can easy slide in from the front. Part 5 slides in from the front under the driver side coil bucket.
STEP 3. Using a marker or paint pen, indicate the areas on the axle where the truss touches the axle to prepare for welding. Remove truss pieces from axle. Using an angle grinder with either a flapper disc or wire wheel brush, clean the surface of the axle tube, casting, upper control arm mount, and coil perch until bare steel is exposed. Clean surfaces on drivers side casting, tube, and coil perch in a similar fashion. Repeat step 2 and place all truss pieces back on axle.
STEP 4. Prior to welding, ensure that the bottoms of all the truss pieces are in a straight line all together. The long truss can sag a little near the UCA mount so push down on the part over the casting and it'll straighten out. Place tack weld on truss pieces to hold all in place. Double check all truss pieces are straight.
STEP 5. Begin welding small strips of truss that touch the axle tube. You want to move around to different parts of the axle as you weld so you don't heat up areas too much. Place a welding blanket over welds so they do not cool too quickly.
STEP 6. To weld truss to cast section with best results, preheat casting evenly around where truss contacts to approximately 400 degrees. DO NOT HEAT UNTIL GLOWING RED AS THIS MAY DAMAGE THE CASTING. Once preheated, weld truss to casting before it cools. For best results, use a needle scaler or peening hammer to relieve the weld directly after welding. Post heat the area to approximately the same temp you used to preheat. Wrap axle in a welding blanket to slow the cooling process, the cooling should be slow (18-24hrs.) and uniform. (The idea behind this method is to relieve the stresses in the materials prior to welding, and ensure that the plate steel does not cool quicker than the cast resulting in stress cracks.)
STEP 7. When completely cooled, check for any cracks in weld especially around the casting. If cracks are discovered repeat the necessary steps above, grinding out any cracked welds and prepping the area.
STEP 8. Once axle is ready, paint truss and axle where bare steel is exposed to prevent rusting. After paint is dry, reinstall axle breather hose, electric locker wire, and any other components. Install axle according to manufacturers specs.
Full Instructions Coming Soon
Click image above to view Installation Instructions