Crossover Steering Kit with 7-8" JMX rod ends

Warning:  This kit requires basic fabrication skills (Cutting, Drilling, and Welding ) If you are not confident in your abilities please have this installed at a Local Off-road Shop.  

Tools Required :

Safety Glasses, Gloves, (optional), Jack Stands, Floor Jack, Drill, Drill 3/4" Drill bit or Reamer , 1-1/4  Wrench, 1-1/8" wrench, Socket Set/Wrench or Impact, Breaker Bar,  Torque wrench, 1-1/8 socket,  Socket for your vehicles Pitman arm Nut (most vehicles use around a 32-34mm socket) Measuring Tape, Sharpie, Cutting Device (Sawzall, Band saw, Cutoff wheel, Chop saw, Hacksaw), 7/8"x14tpi Tap (Both Left hand thread and Standard) Lug wrench, Wheel Lock Key (If you have wheel locks the guys at the tire shop probably lost the wheel lock key), Pitman arm puller ,  Tie rod separator, Needle Nose Pliers, Large Hammer,  Map gas Torch (Optional  but probably Required in Rust Belt States)   Anti seize, Blue Loctite, Cutting oil, Welder/ Welding PPE, and a helper/wrenching buddy.    

Step 1: 

Open Packages and  take Inventory all of the Parts   Please contact Artec Industries Immediately if you are missing any parts @ (855) 278 3299 .      

Step 2:

Please make sure your wheels and steering wheel are strait,  An you do not have any bent or broken steering components This can throw off your measurements  which will be critical later on. 

Step 3:

Grab your buddy, Use the tape measure. You will want to measure and record the lengths of your current Tie rod from center of bolt on the knuckle to center of bolt on the knuckle.  Now measure the current drag-link length from  bolt center to  bolt center of the drag-link ends.

Step 4: 

Thread the Jam nuts onto your Heim Joints, Then Thread the Tube adapters onto the heim. We recommend when assembling the Heim to measure the distance from center of hole in heim to the inside edge of tube adapter where it will bottom out against the D.O.M.  Set that length to 3"  This will allow for plenty of adjustment later on. The Artec uncut assembled Tie rod Should Measure 60"   and Drag-link should Measure 54" if you did this correctly.   Subtract your current Drag link And tie rod lengths from the measurements for the Artec steering and cut the difference out of the tubes.  Remember to Measure 2x Cut once ! 

Step 5: 

Remove Heim from Tube adapters and Weld the tube adapters into place  (You will want to ensure you have 1 tube adapter with a groove LH Thread  and one non grooved Standard Thread  on each piece of tube to allow adjustment on the vehicle ).    Once the welding is complete allow tube adapters to cool for a bit.  Once cooled chase the threads with a 7/8x14 Tap  . Welding can cause the tube adapters to shrink some.  After the threads have been chased grab the Anti seize ( Yes, that stuff that will make you look like the tin man from The Wizard of Oz !)  Put some anti seize on the treads of the heim and thread them into the tube adapters.  

(The LH Thread Tube adapter will have a grove machined on to it you’ll want a LH Thread tap for it )

Step 6:

Chock your wheels,  Start to break loose the front lug nuts free while Jeep is on the ground (Do not fully remove the lug nuts) 

Step 7: 

Jack up the Vehicle and set it securely on jack stands.  Now continue to remove the lug nuts and wheels.

Once Wheels are off. Remove the brake caliper off the knuckles (Hang the calipers off the frame with a bungee cord or modified Metal coat hanger if you let the caliper hang freely brake lines can become damaged )  Now remove the brake rotors (You may need to tap the hat of the rotor if it is rusted on.) Set the rotors on a flat surface. (Do not stand the rotors on end it can cause them to Warp.)   

Step 8:

Remove cotter pins on Tie rods and drag links,   Then loosen the castle nuts.   (Leave the castle nuts  installed by a few threads ! )  Grab your Tie rod Separator, wedge it between the knuckle and the base of the tie rod Hit on the end of the Tie rod separator with your Big Freaking Hammer until it pops loose Then repeat on the other side and with drag link .  Remove the castle nuts and the Drag-link and tie rod should drop off the Vehicle. 

( Tip : If you have a small Map gas torch heat the  Castle nuts and heat the knuckle some this will help break parts free in the rust belt states ) 

Step 9: 

(We Highly Recommend Removing Pitman arm to ensure it is drilled strait and makes drilling a lot easier) 

Use your appropriate sized socket to remove Pitman Arm Nut .  Once the nut is removed  attached your Pittman arm puller and start to pull the Pitman arm.  

Once the Pitman arm is removed from the Jeep you will want to Put it in a drill press and drill out the  drag link hole to 3/4"  if you do not have access to a drill press you can use a bench vise just ensure you are drilling it strait.  If you do not have access to Either a drill press or bench vise the pitman arm can be drilled on the vehicle but we do not recommend it. 

Tech Tip : You can use the torch here to help Just remember if you used any type of penetration oil to soak the pitman arm  it could cause a fire. Be sure to keep a Fire Extinguisher handy . You can also give the Pitman arm a whack with the Hammer and sometimes till pop right off.  Sometimes you have leave the Pitman arm puller on under tension for a bit.  walk away for a bit when you come back its magically on the floor

Step 10:

Reinstall the Pittman arm it is keyed so it should only go on 1 way, Use Blue Loctite on the Pitman arm nut . You will want to use your torque wrench when installing the Pitman arm torque to  your vehicle manufacturers spec.

Step 11: 

Grab your drill and 3/4" drill bit or reamer and drill out the tie rod hole and drag link hole (if equipped) on the knuckle.  Once the knuckle is drilled out, install the tie rod followed by the drag link.  When installing hardware you will want to have the Bolt go through the knuckle then Washer on underside of knuckle sandwiched between the knuckle and misalignment spacer in the heim than the nut against the other misalignment spacer. 

Step 12:

Reinstall the brakes (if your brakes are worn this is the time to replace them.) 

Install the wheels on vehicle and tighten lug nuts.  (Do not torque them yet !)  Lower vehicle off of the jack stands and onto ground then  torque the lug nuts to manufacturers spec. 

Step 13:

With the vehicle back together and on the ground, Did you remember to record the measurement of your steering you took in step #3.    Use your helper and a tape measure to make sure your adjustments are the same or as close as you can get. to those numbers . You will want your tires set Toe in 1/16" - 1/8"  ( Toe in is when the Front of the tires closer together than the rear of the tire.)  Set this by loosening Jam nuts on the steering and twisting the tie rod using a wrench on the wrench flats machined into the tube adapters.   This will get it so you can drive the vehicle to an alignment shop to have a professional alignment performed by a shop.   

Step 14:

Go Wheeling and enjoy your new steering .

After 50 Miles or a few Trail runs (whichever happens first  Please check steering to ensure it is tight