60 Chevy Front Ram Mount and Truss
- 3/8" thick truss top and 1/4" thick ram mount/gussets, CNC cut and bent for great fitment.
- Low profile design allows for ideal geometry for link joints.
- Span the entire length of axle for complete reinforcement of the axle tubes.
- Interlocked gussets provide maximum strength and easy assembly.
- Ram mount doubles as an axle skid plate for added protection.
- Drainage holes in ram mount and gussets for easy cleaning and reduced weight.
- Includes additional gusset for welding removable skid plate to an aftermarket differential cover.
- Clearanced for use with rotated knuckles and pinions.
- Fits PSC Motorsports and Howe Performance double-ended hydraulic rams.
- Additional bolt-on skid plate in front of differential for easy removal of gears.
- Overall low profile design means your axle is stronger, sleeker, and easier to fit into any vehicle.
- Made in the USA
- Get yours today, and get the best!
Artec Industries has introduced the new Chevy Front 60 Hydraulic Ram Mount and Truss. The system is designed to provide the best protection to your steering components. The unique design keeps the ram in its most effective and strongest location, and the 1/4" thick skidplate protects it from rocks. The truss extends end-to-end of the axle tube, providing a location for mounting 3 and 4 links, and reinforcing the axle against bending and shearing. The unique gusseting design allows both the truss and ram mount to completely reinforce each other in every direction. The system is compatible with PSC Motorsports and Howe Performance double-ended hydraulic rams.
Notes : This kit requires general welding and fabrication skills. Welding should only be done by a competent welder. Artec Industries implies no guarantees or warranties and is not liable for improper installation.
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Install Instructions
WELDERS SHOULD ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THIS KIT.
Tools Required :
Safety Glasses, Gloves, Tape Measure, Socket Set, Wrenches, Wheel chocks, Jack, Jack stand. Cutting Tool of your choice (Sawzall, Grinder, plasma, cutting torch) Welder.
Step 1:
Inventory that you have all of the parts for your order If you are missing parts or have incorrect parts contact Artec Industries Immediately @ (855)-278-3299 M-F from 8am-5pm MST If it is after those hours please Email Sales@Artecindustries.com
Step 2:
Place wheel chocks at the rear wheels of the vehicle. Break free lug nuts on rear wheels (Do not fully loosen or remove lug nuts yet.)
Step 3:
With the vehicle sitting on the ground, Measure your ride height at the frame and height of the centerline of the axle, Also take measurement of your wheel base.
(Make a note of this for later.)
Step 4:
Jack up the front of the vehicle and set the axle on Jack stands, Remove the front wheels from the vehicle, With the wheels removed Jack the vehicle up again. Securely place tall jack stands under the frame behind the LCA or Leaf spring mounts at the previously measurement of ride height. Place a 2nd sent of jack stands under the front axle.
Step 5:
Remove the existing front axle from the vehicle
Step 6:
Prep axle the truss will be welded onto by removing all mounts and paint/ rust. Once the axle is prepped. Slide new axle under the vehicle and place on jack stands at the measurement of what the centerline height was at ride height also make sure it is set to the wheelbase you will be using.
Step 7:
Using another jack stand or block of wood set under the Pinion of the axle, Set the Caster angle and pinion to desired angle of your build to ensure it does not get changed . Now place the truss on top of the axle so it is level with the ground and not tilted forward or backward (If your truss is angled it can cause upper arm mounts or the truss to twist off under load) You may need to trim some gussets on the truss to allow it to sit level depending on your wheelbase and pinion angle. (Ford 9” trusses will need to be trimmed to fit your axle)
Step 8:
With the truss set level on top of the axle tack weld The truss ends to the axle tubes.
Step 9:
With the truss tacked into place Pull the axle from under the vehicle to allow more space for welding. Once the axle is pulled from under the vehicle. Heat the axle to about 400 degrees Start to weld the gussets to the axle and truss .When welding, Start on one side of the axle, Weld a small amount, Then move on to the opposite side of the axle to allow each side to cool. This will help prevent warping .Stitch welding is preferred and welding every inch of every seam is not necessary. Grind and clean the rosette welds on the axle. (Optional) Stitch weld the axle tubes to the ends of the casting for added axle strength and to prevent the axle tubes from twisting. If your truss has a Ram mount you will place the ram mount on the axle and roll it up into place until the ram mount contacts the gussets and weld it into place. you will want to mount your steering ram to the mounting blocks and center the ram as much as possible you may only be able to run 3 of the mounts to center the ram. with the ram at full lock and knuckle in full lock you will want to weld the mounting blocks into position so the Ram's shaft and tierod are inline (if they are not inline it could cause stress to the shaft and damage the ram) . If you have any Control arm mounts, Shock mounts, Coil over tabs, Track bar mounts that need to be welded on to the axle you will need to place the axle under the vehicle on jack stands at ride height and desired wheelbase an weld them on at this time in their proper location for your specific build. Once all of the welding is complete you will wrap the axle in a welding blanket to slowly cool overnight.
Step 10:
Clean the Truss and axle of any machining oils and Prep for paint or powder coat.
Step 11:
Install the axle back under the vehicle and place on jack stands. Install the wheels on the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts (Do not torque them down yet.) Lift the vehicle and remove all of the jack stands and set the vehicle on the ground. with the vehicle on the ground check all of the bolts and lug nuts are torqued to proper specs. we recommend drawing a line on the nut and bolt heads and where they are mounted for quick reference when checking for tightness after 50 miles .
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